Overview
Mexico City (CDMX) is enormous and overwhelming and absolutely worth it. I first visited in 2019 and immediately understood why everyone who goes becomes insufferable about it. The food is incredible, everything is cheap, and the mezcal will ruin you for every other spirit. This guide started as notes I kept for friends, updated now that the city has a Michelin Guide and my favorite taco stand has a star.
Fair warning: the city is huge. Pick one or two neighborhoods per day and actually explore them instead of Ubering across town constantly. You’ll have a better time.
Neighborhoods
Roma/Condesa is where most visitors end up, and honestly? It’s earned. Tree-lined streets, gorgeous architecture, and the highest concentration of excellent restaurants and bars in the city. Roma Norte specifically is where the action is – walkable, safe, endlessly interesting. If you only have a few days, base yourself here.
Centro Histórico is the ancient heart of the city, and it’s transforming fast. They’ve launched a massive urban renewal project cleaning up facades, improving lighting, and making it more walkable. It used to feel sketchy after dark; now there are rooftop bars and boutique hotels popping up everywhere. The energy is different here – grittier, more chaotic, more real. Worth at least a full day.
Coyoacán is the bohemian neighborhood where Frida lived and where locals actually hang out. Skip the weekend tourist crush around Casa Azul and come on a Tuesday or Wednesday. The plazas are gorgeous, the market is excellent, and there’s a new wave of cantinas worth seeking out. More residential vibes, great for wandering.
San Ángel is worth the trip for the Diego Rivera studio with the iconic cactus fence, plus a genuinely cute neighborhood to walk around after.
Food & Drink
The Classics (Still Going Strong)
Contramar (Durango 200, Roma Norte) – The seafood restaurant everyone talks about, and it lives up to the hype. It’s the sister restaurant to Cala in SF, but the atmosphere here is overwhelming in the best way – vibrant, packed, absolutely electric people-watching. Get the pulpo if they have it. Make a reservation; walk-ins are basically impossible now. They picked up a Bib Gourmand in 2024, so expect even more crowds.
Rosetta (Colima 166, Roma Norte) – Elena Reygadas’ beautiful Italian-influenced restaurant earned a Michelin star and she was named World’s Best Female Chef in 2023. The interior is stunning, the pasta is exceptional, and you can still sometimes walk in right when they open for dinner. The guava roll at the bakery next door changed my life.
Panadería Rosetta (Calle Havre 73, Juárez & Colima 179, Roma) – Speaking of which: get there early for the bollos de romero (honey rosemary rolls) and the guava rolls. They’ve opened a second, less crowded location at Puebla 242 if the original is mobbed.
Tacos el Huequito (Ayuntamiento 21, Centro) – The Somebody Feed Phil famous al pastor stand. It’s literally a doorway in the street, they only do one thing, and they do it perfectly. Still very good, still worth the hype.
El Moro (Eje Central Lázaro Cárdenas 42, Centro) – Churros and hot chocolate since 1935. They’ve expanded to like 16 locations now (and just opened in LA), but the original Centro spot still has the right energy. Go late night.
Orinoco (Insurgentes Sur 253, Roma) – Incredible tacos, EXTREMELY SPICY. Get the ones with potatoes. You’ve been warned.
El Faraón (Av Oaxaca 92-93, Roma) – My personal hangover savior. Street tacos, not fancy, reliably excellent.
Lardo (Agustín Melgar 6, Condesa) – Part of the Rosetta family. Beautiful brunch, but slow – plan accordingly. You can also grab pastries from the window.
Ojo de Agua (Calle Milan 44, Juárez) – Breakfast/brunch here is SO GOOD and feels healthier than other meals. Smoothies, fresh juice, actual vegetables. They’ve added functional mushrooms to the menu since I was last there, which is very 2024.
The Michelin Star Taco Situation
Taquería El Califa de León (Av. Ribera de San Cosme 56, San Rafael) – In May 2024, this became the first taco stand in Mexico to receive a Michelin star. It’s been operating since 1968 from a 10x10 foot counter with standing room only. They serve four things: Gaonera (filet mignon, the signature), bistec, chuleta, and costilla. Cash only, 50-80 pesos per taco, handmade tortillas. The lines are now insane – arrive early. This is absolutely worth the trip.
Expendio de Maíz Sin Nombre (Av. Yucatán 84, Roma Norte) – Also Michelin-starred, completely different vibe. No menu – the chef sends dishes until you say stop. Everything features nixtamalized corn and handmade tortillas. Extremely affordable despite the star. Expect 30-60 minute waits.
Mezcal (The Whole Point, Really)
La Clandestina (Av. Álvaro Obregón 298, Roma) – Still my favorite. We went here multiple times. Unpretentious, excellent selection, great for learning if you’re new to mezcal. They’ve since opened a sister bar called El Palenquito.
Tlecān (Av. Álvaro Obregón 228, Roma Norte) – The new hotness. Ranked #3 on North America’s 50 Best Bars 2025. Run by Pujol’s former beverage director, the space feels like a pre-Hispanic tomb – rust walls, candlelight, copal incense. They buy mezcal directly from small producers, with emphasis on female distillers. Try the Margarita Kauil with manzano chile. Go Sunday or Monday for smaller crowds.
Bosforo (Luis Moya 31, Centro) – Dark and sexy mezcal bar in Centro. We also had snacks next door – crickets! More popular than ever.
Licorería Limantour (Av. Álvaro Obregón 106, Roma) – They won Best Bar in North America in 2022 and 2023 and just opened an intimate backroom speakeasy called “Licorería” in 2024. The cocktails are exceptional – they had a negroni with mezcal called something about Oakland that I obviously had to try. Higher-end, great for people-watching.
Templo Mezcalería (Donceles 88, Centro) – New in 2024, a prehispanic-themed speakeasy with rustic walls and ancestral dishes. Still under the radar.
Claraluz Salón de Mezcal (Ignacio Allende 2-B, Coyoacán) – Opened August 2024, hidden speakeasy completely dedicated to mezcal. Candlelit, antique-filled rooms. Wednesday-Sunday only.
Wine & Other Drinks
Cicatriz (Dinamarca 44, Juárez) – Technically in Juárez, not Roma. Great cafe with natural wine, fancy toast, aperol spritzes, Mexican-brewed beer, and mezcal. The salads are excellent.
Loup Bar (Tonalá 23, Roma) – Natural wine bar, cozy and unpretentious.
Departamento (Álvaro Obregón 154, Roma) – THIS IS A CLUB. If you want to go out dancing, this is where. Hip, international crowd, good DJs.
Malaquita Rooftop (República de Uruguay 45, Centro) – Hip hotel rooftop bar with Centro views.
New Spots I Haven’t Tried Yet
Maizajo (Monterrey 333, Roma Sur) – Michelin-recommended for exceptional tortillas and heirloom corn. Now has a Condesa location too.
Cantina Masiosare (Carrillo Puerto 50, Coyoacán) – The new neo-cantina everyone’s talking about. Live son, bolero, and cumbia on weekends. Weekend tenedor libre offers unlimited meat cuts for 300 pesos.
Caracol de Mar (inside Hotel Círculo Mexicano, Centro) – From the Contramar team, Mexican-Peruvian seafood. Bib Gourmand. On my list.
Things to Do
Museo Nacional de Antropología – Amazing collection, incredible architecture. You could spend an entire day here and not see everything. It’s in Chapultepec Park, so plan to walk around after.
Casa Luis Barragán – Absolutely my favorite. The light, the colors, the spaces – it’s transcendent. You HAVE to book ahead. Tickets release Tuesdays at noon Mexico City time and sell out within minutes. Book the self-guided Thursday tour (450 pesos) the second they drop. I cannot stress this enough.
Museo Frida Kahlo (Casa Azul) – Get tickets online, skip the line. An incredible capturing of a moment in time. The neighborhood (Coyoacán) is beautiful for walking around after. Café el Jarocho nearby is worth it – I got serenaded by some teens, which was very silly.
Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo – The one with the cactus fence! You can see Diego’s studio pretty much exactly as he left it. In San Ángel, which is a cute neighborhood.
Museo Anahuacalli – Diego Rivera’s pre-Hispanic art collection in this wild volcanic stone pyramid building. FREE with your Casa Azul ticket and way less crowded. Don’t skip this.
Lucha Libre at Arena Mexico – SO FUN. Buy tickets on Ticketmaster beforehand. Try for Super Domingo Familiar, the Sunday at 5PM show.
La Ciudadela – Big craft market in Centro. Great for gifts and souvenirs without the chaos of the bigger markets.
Utilitario Mexicano – “The Muji of Mexico City.” Beautiful, functional Mexican design objects.
Zócalo/Plaza de la Constitución – The historic center. Check out the Cathedral – it’s sinking! The Palacio Nacional has Diego Rivera murals and is free.
Teotihuacán – The pyramids are about 45 minutes outside the city. Buses leave every 20 minutes from Terminal Autobuses del Norte. Worth the day trip if you have time.
Getting Around
Uber is ridiculously cheap and convenient. I know Uber is evil but there’s no Lyft in CDMX. They had an option called Cabify but it never worked as well for me.
The Metro is also cheap and extensive, though it gets incredibly crowded during rush hour.
Walking is the move within neighborhoods. Roma, Condesa, Centro, Coyoacán – all very walkable.
You don’t need a car. Don’t rent a car. The traffic is nightmarish and the parking situation is worse.
Pro Tips
- Everything is cheap. Nicer restaurants and corner stores take cards, but try to use cash when you can. I budgeted 2500 pesos for 5 days knowing I’d put some restaurant meals on my card.
- Try street food. Use common sense – if there’s a diverse crowd, that’s a good sign.
- Avoid unpeeled fruits and raw salsa. Look for roasted salsa instead. Some people say avoid ice (“sin hielo” when ordering).
- Lunch is the big meal, usually around 2pm. Dinner is later and lighter.
- You have to ask for the check (“La cuenta, por favor”) – they won’t rush you out.
- Drink all the mezcal you can. And try pulque if you’re adventurous.
- Book Casa Barragán immediately. I’m saying it again because it’s that important.
Skip This
Trying to see everything – The city is massive. Pick a neighborhood, explore it properly, and come back another time for the rest.
The weekend crowds at Coyoacán – It’s a zoo around Casa Azul on Saturdays and Sundays. Go Tuesday or Wednesday instead.
Random tourist-trap restaurants around the Zócalo – Walk a few blocks in any direction and you’ll find better food for half the price.
Rushing between neighborhoods – Even with Uber, traffic can turn a 15-minute trip into an hour. Plan accordingly and don’t overbook your days.